Bhabi Monowara's Uttor Bongo

Shyamoli

Monowara grew up in Shibganj, Rajshahi, surrounded by mango orchards. Her family owned a small doi business, and the thick, sweet yogurt they produced was famous in the district. Cooking in Monowara's household meant one thing: everything starts with ghee, and nothing is rushed. Her Rajshahi-style cooking is characterized by richness and sweetness that surprises people expecting the universal Bengali reliance on mustard oil. In Rajshahi, ghee is king. Her shahi murgh roast, a chicken braised in ghee with almonds and raisins, tastes like a Mughal feast. Her seasonal mango-based dishes — aam-dal, aam-bhorta, kacha amer chatni — are available only from April to July, and her regulars mark their calendars. Monowara also makes Bogra-style doi in small clay pots, using the exact culture her family has maintained for decades. It is thick enough to cut with a knife and sweet enough to serve as dessert.

Signature dish: Shahi Murgh Roast (ghee-braised with almonds)